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Look at these planting directions to get the idea of what should be done to plant these Maples.

SPRUCEWOOD FARM PLANTING DIRECTION

AMUR MAPLE Look at the below directions for Androscoggin for soil preparation. Need acidic soils from pH of 4 to 6.5. Like well drained, fertile, moist soil. Plan on using a lot of organic matter in large holes. Can be in partial shade or full sun. Fertilize in same amounts as for the spruce, but more often, about every 3 weeks. Mulch is very important for hot areas. Red and Amur tolerate more heat. Figure about a gallon per day of water.

ANDROSCOGGIN AND WILLOUGHBY

These trees are EXCEPTIONAL in the rate at which they grow. They have to be treated as such to realize their potential. It is necessary to provide loose enough soil so that the roots will grow fast. To do this the soil has to be loosened 3 ft down and 3 ft wide. Now inside of this big hole, especially if the dirt is hard, it is advisable to puncture some holes in it with a wrecking bar or shovel for the roots to go into and not just circle around inside the hole. If digging such a big hole is impractical for you consider using a fence post hole digger and/or a wrecking bar. Add about half peat moss, compost, straw, old manure, and any organic matter to some good soil to facilitate the movement of the water and the nutrients to the roots. I'll illustrate that with a statement that someone in Pueblo, CO said about the soil in their mountain area: "It was so rocky and sandy that the water went right by the roots." Enough said.

FOOD They do need a lot of food to grow fast! Like children do. They do need a continuous supply. To do that a fertilizer such as Scott's Turf Builder (without the weed killer) has worked well for so many of our customers, put on once a week, building up to a cup/week. It is widely distributed and is timed release. So many folks have told us if they follow these directions and put on a cup every week on the ground 6 inches away from the tree trunk (make a little mound to protect the roots) every week they get the 8-15 feet of growth per year. (Note: this can happen only in the warm areas. Cooler areas will only produce 6-8 feet of growth per year. Some have burned their trees with this so we thought we should also recommend soybean meal (with 20% nitrogen) with 1 cup used every other week. Some have alternated with a chemical fertilizer every other week in between the soybean applications. The soybean meal is available at animal feed stores. It is not widely known that this is also plant food, so don't despair at the comments made by the feed store folks. It will not say 20% nitrogen on the label, it will just give the protein at 44-46 percent. If they say they don't have it, inform them they can order it.. It is fairly inexpensive at $8-$10 for 50 pounds. We have had good reports from our customers who have used soybean meal. If the first course of action of the two you decide on doesn't produce 6 inches of growth per week when the temperature is at least 80 degrees, try the other fertilizer as well. Also call us to see if something else is wrong.

Another fertilizer is ¼ cup of fish emulsion every 2 weeks. If you have manure handy, and haven't been putting it on the ground where the trees are going to be planted put a sack of it into a barrel and use the tea from that. ON ANY OF THESE FERTILIZERS USE A SMALLER AMOUNT FIRST AND THEN BUILD UP TO THE OPTIMUM STRENGTH. IN THE AREAS WHERE IT WILL FREEZE IN SEPTEMBER STOP FERTILIZING WITH NITROGEN THE FIRST OF AUGUST TO PREPARE THEM FOR WINTER.

WATERING: Keep the jugs wet. When the trees are in the ground keep the soil wet the first year. That may mean watering them every day with 2 gallons to 10 gallons (5 gallons twice a day in very hot areas (125 degrees hot) with no mulch) while the roots are so close to ground level. Another way to keep them moist is to use a thick mulch. When the temperature rises over 120 degrees a foot thick mulch can mean the difference between watering every 4 days or watering twice daily.

UNDER WATERING shows itself in yellow leaves or the leaves just shrivel up. Better to give them more water than not enough. Know how much water they are getting. Be consistent. Running a hose on them occasionally just isn't going to do it.

OVER FERTILIZING When the leaves start to turn brown it is a sign of being burnt by nitrogen, and they need to be flushed with a lot of water, which may save them.

FALL & WINTER WATERING Keep the soil moist even after the leaves have fallen off. If you live where the ground freezes up for the winter watering is over only until the ground thaws in the Spring and starts to dry out.

SOIL TYPES There are 3 basic types of soil: sandy, loam and clay. Sandy soil does not hold water and nutrients very well (the roots can not really bond with sand), although roots can go through it easily. Loam is the best as it has an amount of organic matter that holds on to moisture and nutrients about right (allows the roots hairs to feed more optimally), and is friable for the roots to go through. Clay holds onto moisture and nutrients very well, but can be suffocating to the root hairs if too dense. The roots can not penetrate clay very easily.

SOIL IMPROVEMENT Organic matter such as compost (decomposed or somewhat decomposed organic matter), manure (use aged manure as fresh manure will hurt the roots), peat moss is added to clay and sandy soils and mixed in with it.

ALKALINITY In some areas the soil pH (indicating acidity or alkalinity) does not allow the plants to grow well or not at all. Soils with a pH much over 7 does not allow the utilization of iron and boron (they are rendered immobile because the bacteria cannot release them). Shrubs and grass can grow on high pH soils, but not so easy for most trees. Trees need a slightly acid soil for their enzyme systems. The best treatment to use is elemental soil sulfur (agricultural sulfur or soil sulfur) mixed into the soil where the roots are expected to grow (to the drip line), but it is not all immediate in it's effecting. It may take a year for it to work. Ammonium sulfate lowers the pH right away. Be careful not to get it too close to the roots as the nitrogen will burn the roots if too much is given and too close. I would try a quarter cup to start with. You should get a pH indicator to monitor how it is doing. The sulfur combines with oxygen and water to form sulfuric acid which works on the lime (calcium carbonate) to gypsum (pH neutral) and carbon dioxide. Miracid can be used as well. Also a vinegar solution of 1 tablespoon in a gallon of water brings the pH down 4.0 points. So the vinegar can be used around the roots where sulfate cannot be. For clay soils use twice as much acidifying material. If your water is alkaline you will need to keep putting Acidifying the soil also helps living organisms such a bacteria, fungus, earthworms, insects, and simple plants to build healthy living dirt. Adjusting the soil pH does not immediately enable the soil to produce well. Nutrients have to be added to it until the soil is unlocked by the bacteria. "Ironite" is a brand name of a great formulation of minerals and trace minerals. It takes about a month for the granules to work. Liquid "Ironite" works immediately.

ACIDITY To bring the pH up you need to add calcium. Use a finely ground lime so it works immediately

(like antacid works for your stomach). Use ½ cup of calcium (lime) to raise sandy soil 1.0 point in a 2 foot by 2 foot area. NOTE: IF YOUR WATER IS NOT THE RIGHT pH YOU HAVE TO USE THE SAME TREATMENT FOR IT. If the water is acidic then lime will continue to be needed every week. Such was the case in Quartzsite, AZ. Where the water is alkaline, something that would acidify the water would be necessary. Some sulfuric acid preparations for soil are available in some areas, and there is always "Miracid".

THE TRANSPLANTING When the leaves have fully come out WAIT UNTIL AFTER SUNSET TO PLANT IF IT IS VERY WARM! To take the plants out of the containers wet the soil very well. Next, cut the jug on 2 sides with a scissors or short bladed knife. The main idea is not to disturb the roots. NO COMPETING GROWTH around the trees for a 3 foot diameter around the tree. IF NOT GROWING 6 INCHES/WEEK: MEASURE the progress of all the trees from us. We would very much like to have a picture of the Androscoggin and Willoughby that has grown at least 8 feet in one year. Include with it how you took care of it, and we bring you a free tree for your help. If they are not doing this well during the hot days they are lacking something. They do not have enough water, fertilizer, have a wrong pH, or the ground is just too hard for the roots to penetrate fast.

PROTECTION AND STAKING It is important to stake them if they are 6-9 feet tall when purchased.

PLEASE CALL US or EMAIL US IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS-WE REALLY WANT TO HELP! Sprucewood Farm, 91 Casey Rd, Newport, WA 99156

800 615 3405 OR sprucewood@fasttrees.com.