Full Name: Androscoggin H.P.510-N.E.Clone 41 Populus Maximowiczii (Asian Poplar) x. Populus Trichocarpa (American Poplar).
These Androscoggins are remarkable in what they do! They grow remarkably fast at 6 inches per week when the temperature is above 75 degrees.
They are really lush tropical looking trees with very pretty, shiny, dark green leaves with red veins that are 8 inches wide and 8 inches long on the growing tips. The leaves on the inner part of the tree are 3-4 inches wide and long.
Used for shade mainly where it grows to be 35 feet to 40 feet wide and 50 feet to 55 feet tall. Also works well for a thick screen and/or windbreak by placing them 8-10 feet apart.
The lifespan is 40 years. That is remarkable for such a fast growing tree.
This will be the 18th year of sharing these Androscoggins with the fine people in 13 states. We have seen what they do in all the areas. From the 125 degree heat along the Colorado River basin in AZ (where they grow 8-9 feet per year) to the 8,000-9,500 foot elevation of Colorado (where they grow 6-8 feet per year). In other parts of AZ and in California, New Mexico, Texas, and in other states as well they have been growing 8-13 feet per year. Where the growing season is less and the heat is less the growth is 6-8 feet per year.
Price: $18.95 for 8-9 foot. ( Price includes delivery to northern
$19.95 for 9-10 foot. states. Please add $1 each for AZ, NM, south NV, OK, TX)
If you would like us to bring you some of these trees see the delivery schedule on the home page.
If you are interested in Androscoggin cuttings that grow 6-10 feet the first year they sell for $3 each. Click explanation
The Androscoggin grows in the hottest climates to the coldest climates of the United States. It grows in zones 3 through 10.
This is a USDA zone map for you to see your zone.
SPRUCEWOOD FARM PLANTING DIRECTION
ANDROSCOGGIN
These trees are EXCEPTIONAL in the rate at which they grow. They have to be treated as such to realize their potential. It is necessary to provide loose enough soil so that the roots will grow fast. To do this the soil has to be loosened 3 ft down and 3 ft wide. Now inside of this big hole, especially if the dirt is hard, it is advisable to puncture some holes in it with a wrecking bar or shovel for the roots to go into and not just circle around inside the hole. If digging such a big hole is impractical for you consider using a fence post hole digger and/or a wrecking bar. Add about half peat moss, compost, straw, old manure, and any organic matter to some good soil to facilitate the movement of the water and the nutrients to the roots. I'll illustrate that with a statement that someone in Pueblo, CO said about the soil in their mountain area: "It was so rocky and sandy that the water went right by the roots." Enough said.
FOOD They do need a lot of food to grow fast! Like children do. They do need a continuous supply. To do that a fertilizer such as Scott's Turf Builder (without the weed killer) has worked well for so many of our customers, put on once a week, building up to a cup/week. It is widely distributed and is timed release. So many folks have told us if they follow these directions and put on a cup every week on the ground 6 inches away from the tree trunk (make a little mound to protect the roots) every week they get the 8-15 feet of growth per year. (Note: this can happen only in the warm areas. Cooler areas will only produce 6-8 feet of growth per year. Some have burned their trees with this so we thought we should also recommend soybean meal (with 20% nitrogen) with 1 cup used every other week. Some have alternated with a chemical fertilizer every other week in between the soybean applications. The soybean meal is available at animal feed stores. It is not widely known that this is also plant food, so don't despair at the comments made by the feed store folks. It will not say 20% nitrogen on the label, it will just give the protein at 44-46 percent. If they say they don't have it, inform them they can order it.. It is fairly inexpensive at $8-$10 for 50 pounds. We have had good reports from our customers who have used soybean meal. If the first course of action of the two you decide on doesn't produce 6 inches of growth per week when the temperature is at least 80 degrees, try the other fertilizer as well. Also call us to see if something else is wrong.
Another fertilizer is ¼ cup of fish emulsion every 2 weeks. If you have manure handy, and haven't been putting it on the ground where the trees are going to be planted put a sack of it into a barrel and use the tea from that. ON ANY OF THESE FERTILIZERS USE A SMALLER AMOUNT FIRST AND THEN BUILD UP TO THE OPTIMUM STRENGTH. IN THE AREAS WHERE IT WILL FREEZE IN SEPTEMBER STOP FERTILIZING WITH NITROGEN THE FIRST OF AUGUST TO PREPARE THEM FOR WINTER.
WATERING: Keep the jugs wet. When the trees are in the ground keep the soil wet the first year. That may mean watering them every day with 2 gallons to 10 gallons (5 gallons twice a day in very hot areas (125 degrees hot) with no mulch) while the roots are so close to ground level. Another way to keep them moist is to use a thick mulch. When the temperature rises over 120 degrees a foot thick mulch can mean the difference between watering every 4 days or watering twice daily.
UNDER WATERING shows itself in yellow leaves or the leaves just shrivel up. Better to give them more water than not enough. Know how much water they are getting. Be consistent. Running a hose on them occasionally just isn't going to do it.
OVER FERTILIZING When the leaves start to turn brown it is a sign of being burnt by nitrogen, and they need to be flushed with a lot of water, which may save them.
FALL & WINTER WATERING Keep the soil moist even after the leaves have fallen off. If you live where the ground freezes up for the winter watering is over only until the ground thaws in the Spring and starts to dry out.
SOIL TYPES There are 3 basic types of soil: sandy, loam and clay. Sandy soil does not hold water and nutrients very well (the roots can not really bond with sand), although roots can go through it easily. Loam is the best as it has an amount of organic matter that holds on to moisture and nutrients about right (allows the roots hairs to feed more optimally), and is friable for the roots to go through. Clay holds onto moisture and nutrients very well, but can be suffocating to the root hairs if too dense. The roots can not penetrate clay very easily.
SOIL IMPROVEMENT Organic matter such as compost (decomposed or somewhat decomposed organic matter), manure (use aged manure as fresh manure will hurt the roots), peat moss is added to clay and sandy soils and mixed in with it.
ALKALINITY In some areas the soil pH (indicating acidity or alkalinity) does not allow the plants to grow well or not at all. Soils with a pH much over 7 does not allow the utilization of iron and boron (they are rendered immobile because the bacteria cannot release them). Shrubs and grass can grow on high pH soils, but not so easy for most trees. Trees need a slightly acid soil for their enzyme systems. There is a quick fix by the use of Epsom Salts (Magnesium sulfate). Ammonium sulfate lowers the pH right away. Ammonium sulfate can also be used to lower the pH, but it contains nitrogen so be careful not to get it too close to the roots as the nitrogen will burn the roots if too much is given and too close. I would try a quarter cup to start with. You should get a pH indicator to monitor how it is doing. The sulfur combines with oxygen and water to form sulfuric acid which works on the lime (calcium carbonate) to gypsum (pH neutral) and carbon dioxide. Miracid can be used as well. Also a vinegar solution of 1 tablespoon in a gallon of water brings the pH down 4.0 points. So the vinegar can be used around the roots where sulfate cannot be. There is another way of acidifying the soil being elemental soil sulfur (agricultural sulfur or soil sulfur) mixed into the soil where the roots are expected to grow (to the drip line), but it is not all immediate in it's effecting. It may take a year for it to work. For clay soils use twice as much acidifying material. If your water is alkaline you will need to keep putting it on continually. Acidifying the soil also helps living organisms such a bacteria, fungus, earthworms, insects, and simple plants to build healthy living dirt. Adjusting the soil pH does not immediately enable the soil to produce well. Nutrients have to be added to it until the soil is unlocked by the bacteria. "Ironite" is a brand name of a great formulation of minerals and trace minerals. It takes about a month for the granules to work. Liquid "Ironite" works immediately.
ACIDITY To bring the pH up you need to add calcium. Use a finely ground lime so it works immediately
(like antacid works for your stomach). Use ½ cup of calcium (lime) to raise sandy soil 1.0 point in a 2 foot by 2 foot area. NOTE: IF YOUR WATER IS NOT THE RIGHT pHh YOU HAVE TO USE THE SAME TREATMENT FOR IT. If the water is acidic then lime will continue to be needed every week. Such was the case in Quartzsite, AZ. Where the water is alkaline, something that would acidify the water would be necessary. Some sulfuric acid preparations for soil are available in some areas, and there is always "Miracid".
THE TRANSPLANTING When the leaves have fully come out WAIT UNTIL AFTER SUNSET TO PLANT IF IT IS VERY WARM! To take the plants out of the containers wet the soil very well. Next, cut the jug on 2 sides with a scissors or short bladed knife. The main idea is not to disturb the roots. NO COMPETING GROWTH around the trees for a 3 foot diameter around the tree. IF NOT GROWING 6 INCHES/WEEK: MEASURE the progress of all the trees from us. We would very much like to have a picture of the Androscoggin and Willoughby that has grown at least 8 feet in one year. Include with it how you took care of it, and we bring you a free tree for your help. If they are not doing this well during the hot days they are lacking something. They do not have enough water, fertilizer, have a wrong pH, or the ground is just too hard for the roots to penetrate fast.
PROTECTION AND STAKING It is important to stake them if they are 6-9 feet tall when purchased.
PLEASE CALL US or EMAIL US IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS-WE REALLY WANT TO HELP! Sprucewood Farm, 91 Casey Rd, Newport, WA 99156
